FAQs

KEJSC believes in equal opportunities for all and supports the BSAC Diving for All Programme. However, we must be mindful that the sport of snorkelling can be dangerous, so membership can be restricted on ground of safety.

We have many members within our ranks that have various disibilities, including both mental and physical issues. Many members have reported that because the sport is non competitive, and generally in a weightless environment, it has in fact benfitted their conditions. So we are always keen to help where we can.

We strive to include everyone where possible, however please note, we do not have specific equipment, training or facilities to deal with severe disibility cases.

If you wish to join us and have a specific concern, please get in contact to discuss your issue.

Examples of previous issues we have supported include, Aspegers, Depression, ADD, Mild Personality Disorders. Limb disformatiy/displacia, epilepsy and diabetes.

For more specific or severe conditions there is the Diveability organisation who can supply more detailed support and advice.

If you need more advice or wish to discuss specific needs then by all means email us via our Contact Us Page and we will get back to you asap…

We aim to respond within 24 hours, but its usually much faster…

How Do I sign Up?

Joining us is easy. Just check our Eligibility Page, and our Membership Page for full details on what to do.

We ask if more than one child (eg Siblings) wishes to join, a new form be completed for each.

What equipment do I need?

You won’t need anything at first as we have a stock of club kit for you to use. That way you can make an informed decision that you like the sport before paying out for new equipment.

Please note that pool or beach shops do not supply the correct equipment, so any equipment you do bring with you will need to be assed for suitability.

We currently charge £30 per month for ten months via a direct debit scheme. This covers all training, pool fees. Membership to the British Sub Aqua Club (Required), the governing body of snorkelling in the UK, includes 3rd party liability insurance up to £10 million, and is currently set at £20 per year. This fee is taken on initial sign up with the club fees.

There is a family club discount for two siblings at £50 per month via direct debit. Any more siblings are charged an additional £25 per head per month after that.

For details of full BSAC fees, please click here.

Prices are subject to change without notice and nothing contained in this website guarentees prices or membership. Prices correct at the time of writing.

How old do I have to be?

Snorkelling is a brilliant sport for anyone aged 8-80 year old.

However, we as a club are a specialist youth club. We accept new members from the age of 8yrs and up. We find most members join us about age 10yrs.

We do accept younger members but they must be very strong swimmers and be able to comprehend the training and are only accepted in special circumstances.

Please note that while we accept members up to 16 years old, we do find that the average age of students is approx 9-11 years. Older students may wish to consider this in terms of peer ages so that they do not feel uncomfortable being the oldest. We aim to include everyone, but it can be hard to resolve individual perceptions when at younger ages, the gap can seem quite large.

If you are older, and feel this may not be what your looking for, you may wish to seek advice on alternatives, such as scuba or freediving. We do have excellent contacts and will be happy to advise you accordingly on request.

How much will equipment cost when I decide to buy some?

Kit prices vary depending on what you wish to buy, but simple basic kit of Mask, Snorkel and Fins should cost you no more that approx £100 (and thats for midrange). A mask should cost around £25, a simple J-Tube snorkel about £10 and slipper type fins about £50. The club can advise on what to get and where, so please ask an instructor.

For further information on equipment, please check out our Equipment FAQ or ask an instructor for more information.

What equipment do I need?

You won’t need anything at first as we have a stock of club kit for you to use. That way you can make an informed decision that you like the sport before paying out for new equipment.

Please note that pool or beach shops do not supply the correct equipment, so any equipment you do bring with you will need to be assed for suitability.

Wet suits are an excellent investment in your snorkelling career. A good fitting suit will be more comfortable, warmer and allow greater flexibility when in the water. 

Wetsuits are made from neoprene rubber and is a fantastic insulator having trapped micro bubbles in the material which retain heat. It is also waterproof and protects your skin from minor scrapes and stings. 

A wetsuit as it sounds keeps you wet, but it allows your body to warm the trapped water between you and the suit and the neoprene prevents the heat from escaping too rapidly.  You will eventually get cold, but far less quickly than with just skin exposed to the water. The better fitting the suit, the less water trapped and the less hard your body has to work to heat it up. You therefore stay warmer for longer.

For snorkelling we recommend a minimum thickness of 5mm neoprene, but it is even better titanium lined (a special reflective layer that helps keep you even warmer. Any less that this and it is either not a diving suit or suitable for British waters. You can go up to 8mm if you feel the cold, but you will lose some flexibility. 

Good seals around the neck, cuffs, and ankles are imperitive. They help keep the suit from flushing and in turn you stay warmer longer. They should not be so tight as to cut off circulation but they should be enough to keep the water out to a point. Zips at the cuffs and ankles do aid getting it on and but you lose some integrity in the seal. 

The entry zip can come in many forms. Expensive suits may velvet have waterproof zips to aid the prevention of water entering the suit. However it is not a must to have. You want a good quality robust zip with a tether to aid doing it up yourself. Check the zip works and keep it well waxed or greased (with special zip grease) to ensure it remains long lasting. 

Colourings and styles are down to personal preference but a bright colour will aid you being seen underwater or at the surface in an emergency.

Cost is again down to personal funding but please realise that you do get what you pay for with these sort of things. 

Fit should be skin tight around your whole body. In fact if it was a little struggle to get on then it’s probably about right. It should not pinch under the armpits for back of knees as this can cause painful injury. Check that the knees on the suit match lithe spot where your own are. 

Check that there is no gap at your small of your back. If you can grasp this with your hand and bunch it, it is not a good fit. There is always some compromise due to people’s differing shapes but you don’t want water flushing next to your kidneys as you will get cold very fast. 

Make sure also that the stitching is glued and double blind stitched. This means that the neoprene hasn’t been fully pierced and prevents leaks at the weak points. It’s also a stronger way of seaming the garment. 

Try before you buy. Always try the suit on before you buy it. Don’t buy it online unless you know it’s the right one for you. 

All the major diving manufactureare make excellent suits and the instructors will be very happy to advise you of where to look. 

Firstly, they are called fins, not flippers… Flippers a dolphin! lol

Fins for use in the pool should be simple slipper type fins. Do not purchase fins with straps and an open foot pocket for training in the pool… They come off easily and should be used later on in training under appropriate circumstances.

The foot pocket is generally rubber or silicone, and fits standard shoes sizes. Fit should be tight but comfortable without your toes poking out of the end.

The blade comes in many different forms but they all essentially do the same thing. For a first time purchase keep it simple just a simple blade without extras like splits, vents or springs.

Fins can cost anywhere between £50-£100. Theres no need to go crazy, especially if your young and still growing.

Snorkels are a frequently found with many options and types, such as splash guards and valves to release water.

We however recommend only buying a simple J-Tube snorkel. Its cheaper, its easy to use, and there are no parts to go wrong on a sandy beach.

Its your lifeline to air so keep it simple…

They come in any colour, which is your choice, but the topper most 5-10 cm should be reflective or Flourescent Orange for visual identification in the water.

The mouth piece should have two bite blocks, with a skirt around them. This is usually soft silicone. The lips should seal over and around the skirt and teeth bite onto the blocks. Mouthpieces can come in different sizes so be sure to check.

Cost should be no more than approx £10.

A snorkelling mask is no different to a diving mask. You should always buy in person at a specialised dive shop.

All masks vary to style and shape, but below are things to look out for:

• Frame
  
  All masks have a frame which holds all the parts together. These come in various shapes and colours. These should be sturdy plastic. Check for cracks or lose fittings.

• Seal
  
  The seal is the soft silicone skirt (old styles are rubber)that presses to your face. It should have an inner and outer seal (double seal) which ensures a better seal around your face. Seals vary according to style and make, so be sure to find one that fits comfortably and seals well to your face. The mask should not fall off when you suck in through your nose, hold your breath and shake your head without the strap on.
  
  
• Strap
  
  The strap is also made of silicone but can be found as rubber as spare parts. Silicone is better but both do the same job. The strap is there to hold the mask gently to your face. It is just extra security as a good fitting mask should stay on without the strap. You will find the straps are usually split in two for extra security as a three point contact. If you have long hair, then consideration should be given to a slap strap in addition to the normal one. This is because silicone can easily tangle in there and pull hairs out. The slap strap is neoprene rubber and slides nicely over hair. 
  
  
• The Lens
  
  The glass of a mast MUST be Tempered Glass. This will prevent shattering if struck and in turn prevent serious eye injury. Plastic MUST NOT be used. It shatters into sharp pieces when struck and is not suitable for diving. You can tell it is tempered glass by the word “Tempered” or “T” stamped on the glass near the frame. Masks are found in two types. Single lens and double lens. Generally your decision is down to preference and volume, but if you find you have a large brow, single lenses can be more comfortable.

Cost is generally anywhere from £25-£100, but the latter is rare and usually reserved for crazy new designs or fads.  The overiding thing here is safety, fit and comfort. If is doesnt fit it will leak. If its not comfortable you will not wear it. If it doesnt have tempered glass you risk serious injury…