Here are some common questions and answers which we hope you will find useful. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitiate to get in contact via our Contact Us Page.
Membership Questions:
How much will equipment cost when I decide to buy some?
Kit prices vary depending on what you wish to buy, but simple basic kit of Mask, Snorkel and Fins should cost you no more that approx £100 (and thats for midrange). A mask should cost around £25, a simple J-Tube snorkel about £10 and slipper type fins about £50. The club can advise on what to get and where, so please ask an instructor.
For further information on equipment, please check out our Equipment FAQ or ask an instructor for more information.
What equipment do I need?
You won’t need anything at first as we have a stock of club kit for you to use. That way you can make an informed decision that you like the sport before paying out for new equipment.
Please note that pool or beach shops do not supply the correct equipment, so any equipment you do bring with you will need to be assed for suitability.
Wet suits are an excellent investment in your snorkelling career. A good fitting suit will be more comfortable, warmer and allow greater flexibility when in the water.
Wetsuits are made from neoprene rubber and is a fantastic insulator having trapped micro bubbles in the material which retain heat. It is also waterproof and protects your skin from minor scrapes and stings.
A wetsuit as it sounds keeps you wet, but it allows your body to warm the trapped water between you and the suit and the neoprene prevents the heat from escaping too rapidly. You will eventually get cold, but far less quickly than with just skin exposed to the water. The better fitting the suit, the less water trapped and the less hard your body has to work to heat it up. You therefore stay warmer for longer.
For snorkelling we recommend a minimum thickness of 5mm neoprene, but it is even better titanium lined (a special reflective layer that helps keep you even warmer. Any less that this and it is either not a diving suit or suitable for British waters. You can go up to 8mm if you feel the cold, but you will lose some flexibility.
Good seals around the neck, cuffs, and ankles are imperitive. They help keep the suit from flushing and in turn you stay warmer longer. They should not be so tight as to cut off circulation but they should be enough to keep the water out to a point. Zips at the cuffs and ankles do aid getting it on and but you lose some integrity in the seal.
The entry zip can come in many forms. Expensive suits may velvet have waterproof zips to aid the prevention of water entering the suit. However it is not a must to have. You want a good quality robust zip with a tether to aid doing it up yourself. Check the zip works and keep it well waxed or greased (with special zip grease) to ensure it remains long lasting.
Colourings and styles are down to personal preference but a bright colour will aid you being seen underwater or at the surface in an emergency.
Cost is again down to personal funding but please realise that you do get what you pay for with these sort of things.
Fit should be skin tight around your whole body. In fact if it was a little struggle to get on then it’s probably about right. It should not pinch under the armpits for back of knees as this can cause painful injury. Check that the knees on the suit match lithe spot where your own are.
Check that there is no gap at your small of your back. If you can grasp this with your hand and bunch it, it is not a good fit. There is always some compromise due to people’s differing shapes but you don’t want water flushing next to your kidneys as you will get cold very fast.
Make sure also that the stitching is glued and double blind stitched. This means that the neoprene hasn’t been fully pierced and prevents leaks at the weak points. It’s also a stronger way of seaming the garment.
Try before you buy. Always try the suit on before you buy it. Don’t buy it online unless you know it’s the right one for you.
All the major diving manufactureare make excellent suits and the instructors will be very happy to advise you of where to look.
Firstly, they are called fins, not flippers… Flippers a dolphin! lol
Fins for use in the pool should be simple slipper type fins. Do not purchase fins with straps and an open foot pocket for training in the pool… They come off easily and should be used later on in training under appropriate circumstances.
The foot pocket is generally rubber or silicone, and fits standard shoes sizes. Fit should be tight but comfortable without your toes poking out of the end.
The blade comes in many different forms but they all essentially do the same thing. For a first time purchase keep it simple just a simple blade without extras like splits, vents or springs.
Fins can cost anywhere between £50-£100. Theres no need to go crazy, especially if your young and still growing.
Snorkels are a frequently found with many options and types, such as splash guards and valves to release water.
We however recommend only buying a simple J-Tube snorkel. Its cheaper, its easy to use, and there are no parts to go wrong on a sandy beach.
Its your lifeline to air so keep it simple…
They come in any colour, which is your choice, but the topper most 5-10 cm should be reflective or Flourescent Orange for visual identification in the water.
The mouth piece should have two bite blocks, with a skirt around them. This is usually soft silicone. The lips should seal over and around the skirt and teeth bite onto the blocks. Mouthpieces can come in different sizes so be sure to check.
Cost should be no more than approx £10.
A snorkelling mask is no different to a diving mask. You should always buy in person at a specialised dive shop.
All masks vary to style and shape, but below are things to look out for:
- Frame
All masks have a frame which holds all the parts together. These come in various shapes and colours. These should be sturdy plastic. Check for cracks or lose fittings.
- Seal
The seal is the soft silicone skirt (old styles are rubber)that presses to your face. It should have an inner and outer seal (double seal) which ensures a better seal around your face. Seals vary according to style and make, so be sure to find one that fits comfortably and seals well to your face. The mask should not fall off when you suck in through your nose, hold your breath and shake your head without the strap on. - Strap
The strap is also made of silicone but can be found as rubber as spare parts. Silicone is better but both do the same job. The strap is there to hold the mask gently to your face. It is just extra security as a good fitting mask should stay on without the strap. You will find the straps are usually split in two for extra security as a three point contact. If you have long hair, then consideration should be given to a slap strap in addition to the normal one. This is because silicone can easily tangle in there and pull hairs out. The slap strap is neoprene rubber and slides nicely over hair. - The Lens
The glass of a mast MUST be Tempered Glass. This will prevent shattering if struck and in turn prevent serious eye injury. Plastic MUST NOT be used. It shatters into sharp pieces when struck and is not suitable for diving. You can tell it is tempered glass by the word “Tempered” or “T” stamped on the glass near the frame. Masks are found in two types. Single lens and double lens. Generally your decision is down to preference and volume, but if you find you have a large brow, single lenses can be more comfortable.
Cost is generally anywhere from £25-£100, but the latter is rare and usually reserved for crazy new designs or fads. The overiding thing here is safety, fit and comfort. If is doesnt fit it will leak. If its not comfortable you will not wear it. If it doesnt have tempered glass you risk serious injury…
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Equipment Questions:
How much will equipment cost when I decide to buy some?
Kit prices vary depending on what you wish to buy, but simple basic kit of Mask, Snorkel and Fins should cost you no more that approx £100 (and thats for midrange). A mask should cost around £25, a simple J-Tube snorkel about £10 and slipper type fins about £50. The club can advise on what to get and where, so please ask an instructor.
For further information on equipment, please check out our Equipment FAQ or ask an instructor for more information.
What equipment do I need?
You won’t need anything at first as we have a stock of club kit for you to use. That way you can make an informed decision that you like the sport before paying out for new equipment.
Please note that pool or beach shops do not supply the correct equipment, so any equipment you do bring with you will need to be assed for suitability.
Wet suits are an excellent investment in your snorkelling career. A good fitting suit will be more comfortable, warmer and allow greater flexibility when in the water.
Wetsuits are made from neoprene rubber and is a fantastic insulator having trapped micro bubbles in the material which retain heat. It is also waterproof and protects your skin from minor scrapes and stings.
A wetsuit as it sounds keeps you wet, but it allows your body to warm the trapped water between you and the suit and the neoprene prevents the heat from escaping too rapidly. You will eventually get cold, but far less quickly than with just skin exposed to the water. The better fitting the suit, the less water trapped and the less hard your body has to work to heat it up. You therefore stay warmer for longer.
For snorkelling we recommend a minimum thickness of 5mm neoprene, but it is even better titanium lined (a special reflective layer that helps keep you even warmer. Any less that this and it is either not a diving suit or suitable for British waters. You can go up to 8mm if you feel the cold, but you will lose some flexibility.
Good seals around the neck, cuffs, and ankles are imperitive. They help keep the suit from flushing and in turn you stay warmer longer. They should not be so tight as to cut off circulation but they should be enough to keep the water out to a point. Zips at the cuffs and ankles do aid getting it on and but you lose some integrity in the seal.
The entry zip can come in many forms. Expensive suits may velvet have waterproof zips to aid the prevention of water entering the suit. However it is not a must to have. You want a good quality robust zip with a tether to aid doing it up yourself. Check the zip works and keep it well waxed or greased (with special zip grease) to ensure it remains long lasting.
Colourings and styles are down to personal preference but a bright colour will aid you being seen underwater or at the surface in an emergency.
Cost is again down to personal funding but please realise that you do get what you pay for with these sort of things.
Fit should be skin tight around your whole body. In fact if it was a little struggle to get on then it’s probably about right. It should not pinch under the armpits for back of knees as this can cause painful injury. Check that the knees on the suit match lithe spot where your own are.
Check that there is no gap at your small of your back. If you can grasp this with your hand and bunch it, it is not a good fit. There is always some compromise due to people’s differing shapes but you don’t want water flushing next to your kidneys as you will get cold very fast.
Make sure also that the stitching is glued and double blind stitched. This means that the neoprene hasn’t been fully pierced and prevents leaks at the weak points. It’s also a stronger way of seaming the garment.
Try before you buy. Always try the suit on before you buy it. Don’t buy it online unless you know it’s the right one for you.
All the major diving manufactureare make excellent suits and the instructors will be very happy to advise you of where to look.
Firstly, they are called fins, not flippers… Flippers a dolphin! lol
Fins for use in the pool should be simple slipper type fins. Do not purchase fins with straps and an open foot pocket for training in the pool… They come off easily and should be used later on in training under appropriate circumstances.
The foot pocket is generally rubber or silicone, and fits standard shoes sizes. Fit should be tight but comfortable without your toes poking out of the end.
The blade comes in many different forms but they all essentially do the same thing. For a first time purchase keep it simple just a simple blade without extras like splits, vents or springs.
Fins can cost anywhere between £50-£100. Theres no need to go crazy, especially if your young and still growing.
Snorkels are a frequently found with many options and types, such as splash guards and valves to release water.
We however recommend only buying a simple J-Tube snorkel. Its cheaper, its easy to use, and there are no parts to go wrong on a sandy beach.
Its your lifeline to air so keep it simple…
They come in any colour, which is your choice, but the topper most 5-10 cm should be reflective or Flourescent Orange for visual identification in the water.
The mouth piece should have two bite blocks, with a skirt around them. This is usually soft silicone. The lips should seal over and around the skirt and teeth bite onto the blocks. Mouthpieces can come in different sizes so be sure to check.
Cost should be no more than approx £10.
A snorkelling mask is no different to a diving mask. You should always buy in person at a specialised dive shop.
All masks vary to style and shape, but below are things to look out for:
- Frame
All masks have a frame which holds all the parts together. These come in various shapes and colours. These should be sturdy plastic. Check for cracks or lose fittings.
- Seal
The seal is the soft silicone skirt (old styles are rubber)that presses to your face. It should have an inner and outer seal (double seal) which ensures a better seal around your face. Seals vary according to style and make, so be sure to find one that fits comfortably and seals well to your face. The mask should not fall off when you suck in through your nose, hold your breath and shake your head without the strap on. - Strap
The strap is also made of silicone but can be found as rubber as spare parts. Silicone is better but both do the same job. The strap is there to hold the mask gently to your face. It is just extra security as a good fitting mask should stay on without the strap. You will find the straps are usually split in two for extra security as a three point contact. If you have long hair, then consideration should be given to a slap strap in addition to the normal one. This is because silicone can easily tangle in there and pull hairs out. The slap strap is neoprene rubber and slides nicely over hair. - The Lens
The glass of a mast MUST be Tempered Glass. This will prevent shattering if struck and in turn prevent serious eye injury. Plastic MUST NOT be used. It shatters into sharp pieces when struck and is not suitable for diving. You can tell it is tempered glass by the word “Tempered” or “T” stamped on the glass near the frame. Masks are found in two types. Single lens and double lens. Generally your decision is down to preference and volume, but if you find you have a large brow, single lenses can be more comfortable.
Cost is generally anywhere from £25-£100, but the latter is rare and usually reserved for crazy new designs or fads. The overiding thing here is safety, fit and comfort. If is doesnt fit it will leak. If its not comfortable you will not wear it. If it doesnt have tempered glass you risk serious injury…